When a restaurant claims to serve “the best,” I try to keep my expectations low. This is a ludicrously bold claim. Nearly all London restaurants claim to be the best at this or that, but only some live up to the standards they set.
When the waiter in Vori Greek kitchen in Holland Park announced they had “the best Cheesecake in London,” I was immediately on guard. It’s not just that I love cheesecake, but it is also because the waiter said so. I love it, and my favorite desserts are the only second to sticky toffee. I’m not the least bit suspicious.
Vori is a Greek restaurant. Before I give my opinion on the cheesecake, I would like to introduce Vori. The cozy restaurant’s white walls, blue, red, and gold accents are meant to evoke a quintessential Greek atmosphere. The relaxed venue is great for chatting, but be careful – the neighboring tables can hear everything you say.
Markos Tsimikali opened Vori in Spitalfields in 2022. He previously owned Hungry Donkey. After closing the latter last year, he brought a slice of Greece to west London, serving up dishes from a charcoal oven paired with Greek wines and Mediterranean-inspired cocktails.
It’s nice to see some lesser-known Greek dishes on the menu, aside from the usual London favorites (souvlaki). The restaurant is trying to highlight different parts of Greece by offering various dishes.
Start with gigantes, large butter beans the size of your thumb, and swimming in caramelized onions and tomato. Then, move on to melitzana – a Mount Athos aubergine salad grilled over charcoal. Each dish balances savory and sweet flavors, but all have that garlicky kick that is important in Mediterranean cuisine.
My dining partner chooses the Kakavia. It is described as a traditional Greek fish soup, with white fish poached and rock samphire. Originally from Crete and usually served in a stew with vegetables, herbs, and fish, Vori’s kakavia soup is blended to a thick consistency, then the fish is topped. It was bland and needed more seasoning. I would rather have seen the colorful vegetables as a focal point.
My slow-cooked aubergine mash with Naxos graviera beef shin was delicious. The beef shin had a delightful flavor and was meltingly tender. The dish is incredibly comforting, but it’s a lot bigger than expected. It’s a good idea to share this dish, especially if you want to try the roast potatoes with lemon, rosemary, and honey and the roast vegetables dressed in balsamic and honey.
Was it the best cheesecake you could find in London, as I know you were dying to know? Also, he mentioned that it was sugar-free. Hmm. We all shared a Cretan Cheesecake made with Galomizithra, candied nuts, and wild thyme. This soft cheese is originally from Crete and made of goat’s and sheep’s dairy. It is creamy and smooth with a distinct “greatness” that people love or hate.
This cheesecake is delicious. It’s not the best cheesecake in London, but it is undoubtedly among the top. It’s a cake without sugar that allows the Galomizithra to shine. The texture is so creamy it coats the roof of my lips and tongue: the thyme honey, crunchy candied nuts, and mildly flavored honey cut through the dense cake. The cheesecake is a great pairing. I may not return to Vori for its savory food but for its delicious cheesecake. If I’m already there, why not try the other dishes I missed this time? If I visit on a warm, sunny spring or summer day, it might be like being transported to the Greek islands for a few hours.